Coach Hörst discusses the importance of a post-season assessment, as well as planning off-season training and next season goals (and travel). Eric also answers viewer questions on hangboard training for strength and endurance, the importance of BMI, keeping a training logbook, dealing with next-day muscle pain, and more!
Summary
1:30 – Sip coffee with coach Hörst – climbers around the world unite!
1:35 -Introducing PhysiVantage’s special holiday SEND BLEND coffee. Learn more: https://physivantage.com/products/sen…
2:20 – SHOUT-OUT to Alex Megos on another 5.15c ascent!
4:35 – Introduction to Main Topic: End-of-season assessment, reflection, and planning for progress!
10:00 – The importance of redesigning your training in order to progress next season.
15:00 – Do rough 2022 season planning NOW!
18:30 – What tips and advice do you have for keeping a training log?
21:00 – Eric reveals his training log book with advice for keeping both objective and subjective data.
28:38 – Do you recommend taking EAAs or BCAAs, before or during training, in addition to Supercharged Collagen?
31:30 – What causes next-pain muscle pain? Is this sort of pain normal or something to avoid?
34:30 – I just dislocated my knee cap…so I’m wondering what training I can do during my recovery period?
36:00 – How many strength and endurance sessions can I do per week as an 8a-level climber?
38:00 – Is there an ideal BMI range for climbers?
40:20 – Do you think eccentric exercise is best for tendon health and strength?
44:00 – Eric comments on the 7-53 max strength hangboard protocol…and when you should switch to training one arm at a time.
45:20 – What’s the difference between doing 7/3 Repeaters with added weight and longer rest and doing them at bodyweight (or less) with only a minute rest between sets?
50:00 – As a boulderer doing max finger training, how can I best add more finger grip variety?
53:30 – As a new climber, I’m wondering if I can do some hangboard training on large holds?
55:42 – My climbing season is about over, but I’m close on a 5.13a project. Should I travel to make more attempts before year’s end or save it for next season and begin my winter training now?
58:01 – How many sizes do you downsize your La Sportiva climbing shoes?
1:00:30 – What are your thoughts on hangboarding with a half crimp or chisel?
1:02:30 – Final thoughts…
