There are many pros and cons that accompany hangboard training during peak performance season. Watch the video below as Eric Horst discuses how to approach this kind of finger training, while still maintaining optimal outdoor performance levels.
RUNDOWN:
0:35 – Sip coffee with coach Hörst – climbers around the world unite.
2:05 – Eric’s SHOUT OUT to Stefano Ghisophi on sending Bibliography. Eric sounds in on the downgrade to 5.15c/9b+
4:50 – A look at the Hörst home gym…and Cameron Hörst training for his trip to Germany.
7:00 – Eric explains about his “111” shirt…a tribute to a fallen soldier (and fellow climber).
8:30 – MAIN TOPIC: In-season Hangboard training — Should you do significant hangboarding during your outdoor performance climbing season?
**** QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ****
17:50 – Getting into climbing at age 33, how long can I improve at bouldering…before transitioning to route climbing?
22:25 – As a route-setter, working a long day setting–and testing–boulders between V0 and V9…what kind of a training day is this, and how do I train and climb on other days to perform my best?
26:54 – Can I do onsight climbing outdoors during a strength/power phase of my training cycle?
36:18 – I climb outside every Sunday, so how shall I organize bouldering and hangboard training?
40:50 – Which finger training protocols develop neurological versus structure adaptations?
44:55 – Does the nervous system get affected by weight lifting? How long must I rest between lifting and climbing?
46:50 – How much difference between the 2nd and 3rd editions of your Training For Climbing book? https://physivantage.com/products/tra…
48:45 – Getting into climbing later in age, how do I balance short-term gains with development for the long game?
53:25 – Tips for rehabbing and returning from an ankle sprain?
