How to Train Contact Strength | A Spectrum of Exercises for Climbers
“For every aspect of our climbing that we want to improve, there is a list of exercises we can choose from. These exercises exist on a spectrum that at one end is more measurable and isolates individual actions, but doesn’t transfer as directly to sport. On the other end are exercises that are less measurable, combine many complex interactions, and as a result are far more transferable to sport.” – Power Company Climbing
Summary:
00:00 | Intro and the continuum
01:14 | What is contact strength?
02:09 | What does the research say?
04:06 | The relationship between force and velocity
06:25 | Start of the continuum of exercises
06:43 | Velocity No Hang
08:53 | Velocity Hang
11:42 | Grip Specific Velocity Hang
13:13 | Campus Board Jump and Latch
14:50 | Grip Specific Jump and Latch
16:55 | Campus Ladder Variations
18:24 | Small Rung Ladders
18:48 | Foot-On Small Rung Ladders
19:20 | Power Strips
20:17 | 1-3-Max-Match
21:07 | Boulder Campus
22:17 | Indoor Climbing
23:22 | Outdoor Climbing
24:15 | Wrap Up
The Power Company began as an obsession with trying to get better at climbing, and are training leaders through their blog posts, video tutorials, and podcasts. Led by Kris Hampton, they have gathered a community of people dedicating to improving.